It’s about time the oat got its 15 minutes of fame, and not just for reducing cholesterol or helping to “keep things regular” (although those are impressive credentials). And sure, there are more exotic sounding grains like farro and quinoa, amaranth and millet, but the oat is (unfortunately) usually left out from the trendy whole grain posse. I’m not talking about “quick” oats; dear God no. They cook up into a slimy paste that I can’t imagine anyone would want to eat after they’ve had a taste of toothsome steel-cut or Irish oats. Even regular old-fashioned rolled oats are far better than quick-cooking varieties (which are processed to destroy any active enzymes that might make the oats rancid, as well as par-cooked to shorten cooking time).
Oats, whether steel-cut into pieces or steam-rolled into dusty flakes, are quite nutritious and contain an abundance of thiamin, iron, phosphorous, and dietary fiber. But somehow, over time the oat has been relegated to breakfast duty, with supplementary work at snack time in granola and the occasional guest spot at brunch in a scone or pancake. They are seldom enjoyed for lunch or dinner and are rarely seen without a supporting cast of sugar, nuts, dried fruit, etc. that tend to cover up the delicate, nutty oat flavor instead of enhancing it.
Being the economical genius that I am (aka cheapskate), I recently invested in a huge bag steel-cut Irish oats from a certain membership-only warehouse. I have been enjoying hearty morning porridges for weeks now! Oatmeal with honey and almonds, oatmeal with cranberries and walnuts, oatmeal with cinnamon and brown sugar, oatmeal with apples, oatmeal with dried apricots, oatmeal with anything!
So yesterday, I decided that artichokes would be April’s featured Seasonal Seattleite item, I wanted to try them in something new. Something comforting, creamy, warm, satisfying…why not artichokes with oatmeal? Savory, risotto-like oatmeal where the grains are toasted in butter, then simmered with rich broth and finally studded with artichoke hearts. How did it turn out?
It was so unbelievably good. It was creamy; not starchy or gummy. It had texture; chewy, toothsome oats suspended in sauce with slices of artichoke hearts. It had flavor; deep, sweet, vegetal, artichoke flavor from the pureed artichoke trimmings (strained of course) as well as brightness from lemon zest. It was everything a savory porridge should be. Dare I say it, it was better than risotto. It was easier to cook (oats become creamy on their own, without constant stirring), less expensive to make, and more nutrient dense (steel-cut oats are a whole grain, Arborio or Carnaroli rice are not). PEOPLE: Make. this. dish. now.
Oat Risotto with Artichokes and Lemon
The risotto can be made without artichokes, simply use chicken stock instead of making the artichoke stock, and flavor it with butter, cheese, and lemon zest. Serve it on its own or with braised meat, grilled vegetables, or with a simple green salad. Hello easy dinner!
Makes 4 servings
Ingredients:
2 artichokes
1 lemon
2 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 cup steel-cut oats
1/3 cup white wine
1/3 cup grated Pecorino or Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon lemon zest
Prepare the artichokes. Fill a large pot with cold water and the juice of one lemon. Using a serrated knife, cut off the top third of the artichoke and then trim the leaves off the sides until you reach the yellowish white artichoke heart. Use a paring knife to trim the stem and remove any remaining tough green parts and leaves until you have just the heart (with the choke still intact) and stem. Cut the heart into quarters and put in the pot of water, then repeat the process with the other artichoke. Add all of the trimmings to the pot and bring to a simmer, cooking the artichoke hearts and trimmings for 20 minutes.
Make the artichoke stock. Use a slotted spoon to fish out the artichoke hearts and remove them to a plate to cool. Once cool, scoop out the hairy choke from the hearts and slice the heats and stems; set aside. Spoon the cooked artichoke trimmings to a food processor (or very powerful blender) and puree until as smooth as possible. Add the puree back to the artichoke cooking water, then strain the stock through a fine sieve, discarding the solids. Set the artichoke stock aside.
Make the risotto. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a medium saucepan, then add the garlic and oats. Cook the oats for 2-3 minutes, until the garlic is fragrant and the oats are slighted toasted. Add the wine and cook for 1 minute. Add 5 cups of the reserved artichoke stock and stir to combine. Lower the heat and simmer the oats for 25-30 minutes, stirring occasionally. When done, the oats should be tender but still chewy and the sauce should be creamy but not too thick (add more artichoke stock if necessary).
Finish the risotto. Once the risotto is al dente, remove it from the heat. Add the remaining tablespoon of butter, grated cheese, salt, and lemon zest and beat vigorously until very creamy and glossy. Gently fold in the reserved artichoke hearts and stems and then serve immediately.
